Why I baste-stitch my doll clothes

I baste-stitch a lot. It's probably the reason why I take so much time making my doll clothes. But to me, it's another important step to complete my process. Of course there are simpler pieces that don't need it, but I would say, I really have a lot of pieces that I do baste-stitching for.

Some of you guys, who have been following my miniature fashion journey for a while now, probably already know what baste-stitching is because I show/mention it a lot in my process videos. But if you just stumbled into this term, let me introduce you to this sewing technique that I find really essential in my process.

Baste-stitching is pretty much doing a running stitch, but for temporary use only. It is done in long/larger, loose stitches, oftentimes without the need of knots at the ends because they are supposed to be removed after. With this step, fabrics are secured together, ready for the final sewing/stitching. It can done by hand, or by machine.

I'm using here the red thread for my baste-stitching,
to keep together the folded waistband while I do the final stitching

Some call this process simply as basting, or tacking. I find others call it basting stitch, but pretty much, all crafters mean the same thing, and aim to accomplish similar goals using this technique.

So why do I baste a whole lot? I have been thinking about digging into this for a while now so here I am writing this. Perhaps doll clothing newbies would love to hear about its benefits.

I use a simple, home-use portable sewing machine

In 2009, I bought the LS-2125, a portable model, designed for simple mending and home sewing. This sewing machine was released by Brother for the beginner market. It even is recommended for kids who want to learn sewing because of its easy-to-use features. This model is now discontinued and replaced with an upgraded version.

My one and only sewing machine since 2009 :)
I know she needs some cleaning :P

In my first few years, it took me a while to learn using it because I didn't read the user manual (you need to if you want to operate an equipment). I couldn't get enough time to learn using it because I was working 9-5 then and only had weekends for such an activity. One of the things I struggled the most with is the use of proper machine-sewing needles. There was a chart of needle codes/sizes to use for certain kinds of fabrics, and since I never read the manual, I keep on getting loose stitches, messy bobbin threads, and a lot of jamming. I also bought so many needles that I cannot use! But of course, you learn a lot over time, given a consistent practice.

Still, I would recommend this model or any similarly simple sewing machine, especially to those who are new to machine-sewing. Just make sure you are reading the user manual, or watched a how-to operate videos for such model, so you can get the most out of your equipment, and partner for years to come.

So, going back to the topic: basting. Perhaps I may be adding this extra step to my process, simply because my sewing machine is not meant for the rather complicated, intricate pieces I try to make. I find a lot of miniature fashion designers use industrial type sewing machines, or non-portable vintage ones. Although I haven't used one, I believe such sturdy machines are powerful enough to handle small-scale stitches, or hold three, even four layers of fabrics without issues. These machines, as I see in videos around the Internet, seem to just glide like a dream, as long as the crafter knows how to use it.

This is my main hunch. I am aiming to get myself an industrial-type sewing machine, and hopefully, by then, I could prove what I am talking about.

Why not just fold, or pin-baste?

Oh, I do fold- as well as pin-basting, too, and those are for my simple seams and hems. However, most of the time, I use a combination of two or even three basting techniques in my process.

Pinning and baste-stitching a sleeve to armhole seam

Pin basting is perfect for longer, straight or just slightly-curved seams and hems. I use it for pant inseams and outseams, for straight hems of wide skirts, shorts and tops, and other not-so curved seam lines.

Pinning the outseam before joining front, back and pocket pieces

Pinning is quicker to do, however, you should be careful enough, and remove each pin when your presser foot is running close. I had been too lazy too many times in the past to remove the pin, and my machine needle would always break when it hits a pin. The pin, on the other hand, just bends. I guess my home-use machine uses less sturdy needles since they're designed for simpler projects, yes?

Fold-basting is pretty much the quickest of them all, and perfect for shorter seams and hems. When I join or hem cotton, or other non-slippery fabrics, I just fold and hem away.

When to use baste-stitch...

Sleeve-to-armhole seams always need my baste-stitching preparations. I can get crazy with my basting, but I assure you it makes everything else so much easier.

The upper and lower baste-stitching will make sure the seamline is set.
I remove the baste-stitching along the seamline just before sewing.

I also baste my curved necklines, arm holes and hems. These parts of the garment, especially in miniature fashion making, need smaller baste stitches. Pins will be too big for sixth scale curves, while folds cannot set the curvy hem allowance in place.

Tank top necklines need a lot of baste-stitching
because of the curves and the stretchy fabric

My jeans' waistbands also need their top stitching close to the seams. Baste stitching will keep the waistband fold flat. This could actually be done without baste stitching if you have a top-notch sewing machine. Unfortunately, my sewing machine cannot do a nice looking top stitch when more than two layers of fabric (of regular thickness, say like a Japanese cotton) are combined. So, I sew from the back, because the bottom stitch, provided by the bobbin thread, can provide the right tension, and produces great-looking "top" stitch. Odd, but that's how I resolve my little challenges.

Stretchy rayons and other slippery/shiny fabrics will also be easier to sew if you prepare a baste stitch on your hems or seams. There are however some fabrics that show prominent baste stitching holes once thread removed so always consider that, too. And speaking about threads, there are basting threads out there that you can use. I just use regular threads that I use with everything.

One more thing I like about baste-stitching is that I can avoid pin pricks, especially when I hand-stitch some garments. I only hand-stitch an entire garment when I record my how-to videos and tutorial, though.

So there you go, dollings. I think I have pretty much summed up my reasons of basting way too much it probably will annoy a lot of crafters. But that's me, and until I buy a more efficient sewing machine, baste-stitching will have to stick around. And I don't mind at all, anyway ;)

Chat with you soon, loves!

xoxo,
shasha